Throughout rehearsals for his fall males’s present, Rick Owens’ male muse Tyrone Susman urged the designer rethink displaying his puffer coats and fuzzy vests with their hoods zipped up over the face, leaving solely eye slits and a few respiration holes.
Owens pushed again. “This isn’t Disneyland at this firm. We get form of intense,” he mentioned throughout a preview.
No kidding! Owen’s blistering fall present featured Sisters of Mercy performed at bone-shuddering quantity; disorienting strobe lights; a sleeveless sweater bearing the phrase Urinal; sculpted helmets that sprouted lit fluorescent tubes – and garments that have been as fierce as they have been majestic.
It was an exhilarating show as fashions whisked by means of a uncooked concrete area on the Palais de Tokyo sporting big parkas spilling lengthy goat hair trim, bomber jackets with sleeves slashed on the elbow, or tailor-made coats and jackets in Frankenstein proportions.
Owens defined in his press notes that he first designed exaggerated shoulders as a “parody of masculinity” solely to find he enjoys sporting them as “an excuse to take up extra space round me. Camp has at all times been about exaggerating earnestly naive urges.”
And Owen’s brooding and typically menacing garments are about skewering conservatism and puritanism, notably all of the strident judgments and superior morality trumpeted on social media lately. “I see it as my life’s work to steadiness out that vitality,” he mused.
His darkish, rebellious spirit was there in spades, together with an undercurrent of sensuality and glamour, with Susman opening the present in a steel mesh tank high woven extra loosely than a chain-link fence – exalting his sinewy torso.
Owens invented a brand new adjective for the look – glamazleazy – including the extra descriptor of languorous. But there was the standard rigor to his tailoring, extra voluptuous than ever, and the finesse of luxurious, but meaty materials, from cotton and silk duchesse to a canvas wool woven on century-old shuttle looms.
Again to that Urinal sweater: Owens went off on a tangent, as he’s portrayed the act of relieving himself on photographs and sculptures of himself, in photographs and exhibitions, as a metaphor for artistic expression that’s expelled, rejected and internalized.
Right here it was extra about “laughing at males’s baser urges” – and maybe a sly commentary about extreme branding and pontificating. “In a world of logos and messages on T-shirts…I feel that is anti-that,” he chuckled.