When Rhuigi Villaseñor made his official debut with Rhude at Paris Trend Week in 2020, he struggled to outline his label’s raison d’être. Two years later, the Los Angeles-based designer was again within the French capital for the primary time for the reason that pandemic — and this time, he knew precisely what he wished to say.
His spring present, titled “New Cash,” was an acerbic commentary on streetwear’s function within the vogue ecosystem, at a time when luxurious manufacturers have by no means been extra invested in courting a youthful, extra informal client. It felt particularly related since Villaseñor is poised to point out his first collection for Swiss luxury brand Bally in Milan subsequent September.
“‘New Cash,’ to me, is my direct response to the time period ‘streetwear,’” he mentioned of the phrase, which is universally abhorred by nearly all of the designers it’s routinely utilized to.
“There’s a primary intention to why you name issues ‘streetwear,’ and it’s rooted from discomfort, it’s rooted from possibly partially racial, no matter it’s, however I feel it’s rooted from one thing that must be mentioned,” he added.
The designer, who was born in Manila, is conversant in the outsider’s perspective. His adopted circle, represented within the entrance row by company together with rapper Kodak Black and basketball participant Karl-Anthony Cities, helps to set the cultural tempo now, and this assured assortment mirrored that newfound standing.
Take his preppy pink sweatshirt, draped over a striped shirt, worn collar turned up. A more in-depth look revealed an outsized bandana motif that gave it a subversive edge. Likewise the khaki cargo pants, Madras test shorts and brown swimsuit pants, pulled all the way down to reveal boxer shorts that prominently displayed a Rhude label.
Villaseñor hinted at the place he would possibly take Bally with gadgets like a suede automobile coat with a relaxed reduce, silky striped pajamas worn with sneakers, and a crisp beige linen swimsuit made with Italian tailor Denis Frison, which was paired with leather-based flip-flops.
“That is form of a reushering of a celebrated life, in a approach,” mentioned the designer, whose Instagram feed is plagued by aspirational photographs. He’s conscious that not everyone seems to be comfy with luxurious’s altering of the guard — however he’s unbothered.
“Indifference could be the worst factor, so whether or not you like it otherwise you hate it, I simply need to entice emotions,” he mentioned, noting the present was held on a campus of Sorbonne College. “I suppose we’re right here to point out that I’m only a scholar of the sport.”