Milan’s medieval Palazzo Durini was the stage for Brioni’s presentation, and design director Norbert Stumpfl projected pictures of Rome, the place the model was based, onto the frescoed partitions within the constructing, making a particular hyperlink between the 2 cities. “I preferred the uncooked feeling of this palazzo,” the designer stated.
Whereas he definitely created an environment for the presentation, the garments spoke volumes concerning the luxurious Brioni stands for and its craftsmanship, exemplified by an overcoat and jacket in black vicuna with hand-painted leather-based buttons, or a shirt with a crocodile-skin bib and its sleeves and again in cashmere.
Lightness was prime of thoughts for Stumpfl in creating the autumn assortment, as he offered a brand new deconstructed and extra comfy silhouette – with out neglecting particulars such because the leather-based on the pants’ drawstring, additionally painted by hand. “That is an old-school method of working however tailored to the brand new designs, to be in sync with the instances,” he stated.
The designer was impressed by Breughel the Elder’s portray “Allegory of Air,” displayed in Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj, each by way of the palette, from completely different shades of blue to inexperienced, and in “the dynamism and lightness Breughel expressed as he labored to seize the picture of air -something that’s each intangible but important.” A child alpaca shirt and pants combo drove residence the purpose.
Brioni this season reached out to girls, presenting a capsule of six seems that have been an extension of the boys’s put on designs and lower for the feminine type, though Stumpfl shied away from offering any projection for this section in the mean time.